![]() There is however, one place that the ACC conductors are available to tap into. (Might be a good solution for some applications though). Disassembling the Center Console Accessory Power socket is actually pretty easy (see Center Console part of attached Service Express documents-CENTCON1 and CENTCON2), but once you have accessed this, it’s hard to then run wires out again to places in the rest of the car. Disassembling the Front Accessory Power socket requires taking apart the whole front center dash both over and under the gear shifters (starting with the screen) which is intimidating. So the problem: The BD harness is inaccessible and/or scary. In the center of dashboard, after it feeds the climate control and infotainment sections, some conductors split off to power the Front Accessory Power Socket, then the remaining wires join to a new harness that goes to the Center Console Accessory Power Socket (aka the back seat power), and probably the USB power, among other things. It is huge with lots of wires, goes deep under the dashboard, and goes immediately across over the steering wheel, then down behind the center front console. You can look at the diagrams (see attached Service Express docs DIAG2, DIAG3, DIAG4), but Wiring Harness BD is ugly. These immediately leave the Under Dash Fuse/Relay box via (inaccessible) Connector E in the (inaccessible) back of the box, and go into Wiring Harness BD. This means one can’t just tap into the fuse locations with a fuse tap-if you do, you get "always-on" power, like any other fuse, not switched power.Īfter the fuse, the switching is as follows (see Service Express doc DIAG1-the ACC circuit diagram-attached): ACC ON signal comes from the Body Control module energizes a nameless relay and this relay then energizes the coils in relays L2 and 元 (also in the Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box), energizing the ACC circuits. Unfortunately, the fuses are BEFORE the ACC control relays. Fuse 29 protects the Front Console Accessory Power (cigarette-lighter style) socket and Fuse 10 protects the Center Console Accessory Power socket (which despite the name is really for the back seats). There are two ACC circuits originating in the underdash fuse box (formally the Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box, as there are other fuse boxes), just inside the driver’s door. See the attached Service Express documents for more details, but essentially the way the ACCs work is: Unfortunately, the ACC circuits at first glance don’t suit. The ideal ACC source would be easy to tap into, and also be in a place where one can easily run wires out to the rest of the car to power the gadget of interest. Sorry this is so long but a lot of hard-won knowledge. If you need more power (for your big amplifier or hair dryer or whatever) there is a suggestion at the very end.Ģ/3: The background (skip to the next post if you just want the solution). My needs were pretty modest: powering a Thinkware dashcam that had both Parking and On modes, and a BSS1-LPB rear cross-traffic/blind spot sensor. Note that this solution taps into the same circuit as the front console accessory socket circuit, and with 18ga wires, so would max out at about 10A/120W. Maybe someone will use them to come up with an even better option. ![]() The second post describes the existing ACC circuits, and gives the diagrams. It took a lot of figuring out, so wanted to share. It is not hard if I was to do again, I’d guess 10-15 min. I found a pretty easy way to tap (hardwired) into ACC (switched) circuits. Of course, the easiest is to plug into the accessory power outlets with an adapter, but sometimes that won’t suit. So far, I haven’t seen a good solution for hardwiring. (Honda calls these circuits ACC so I am going to use that term even though they also use ACC for Adaptive Cruise Control.) For powering aftermarket add-ons, it would be nice to have access to switched power (ACC, or accessory power) so the devices can’t drain the 12V battery when car is off. ![]()
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